Thursday, April 22, 2010
Final Thoughts from Cairo
I'm currently finishing up my last two papers--one on obstacles to peace in the Arab-Israeli conflict, and the other on concepts from the book Exclusion and Embrace by Miroslav Volf. Both are intimidating, but by tomorrow afternoon I will be done! I'm going to visit my homestay family for the last time tomorrow evening and then Saturday the group is going to Anafora (the retreat center where we once held Coptic-American day) for a few days of debriefing. After 2 more days to soak in the last of Cairo and say my sad goodbyes, I'll be off to my homeland.
As I think of going back to the States, I am making a list of important things for myself to remember upon my return. Here’s what I have so far. Hope you enjoy them.
-It is no longer acceptable to walk within inches of a moving vehicle. There is a thing called “J-walking”. It’s illegal. Also…when driving, remember that there are traffic laws you are supposed to abide by.
-When you go buy a $5 meal at a fast food place (which for your stomach’s sake, I would recommend waiting a while before tyring), try not to think about that fact that you could buy over 10 bowls of koshery or 20 falafel sandwhiches for the same price. $5 really isn’t as much money as you think it is.
-When you walk past a crowd of men (and don’t be surprised when you actually see women walking the streets as well!) and you don’t hear comments like “Wow!”, “O my God!”, and “I am single!”…don’t start to think that something must be wrong with you.
-When you get home, don’t freak out about that strange, mysterious sound you don’t recognize. It’s called quiet. It’s a good thing.
-It’s summer. Girls will probably be wearing shorts and tank-tops. Don’t judge. It’s acceptable here and not necessarily immodest or skanky. In fact, you should do it too. It’s okay.
-Don’t bargain with store owners. There’s a thing called a fixed price.
-You live on an isolated hill in West Virginia. If you need something, you actually have to drive somewhere instead of just walking out your door. And here's the kicker...there is no public transportation! :O
-There is a giant piece of equipment next to the washing machine. It’s called a dryer. You can stick your clothes in there instead of hanging them, but don’t be surprised if they no longer fit afterward.
That's all that currently comes to mind, but I'm sure I'll be finding more once I'm home. Sometimes you don't notice how much you've changed until you go back to the beginning. But I am excited to be home again! It'll be good to be with my family and to process.
Thank you to everyone who I know has blessed me with prayers. I cannot tell you how much I've appreciated it. I hope you've enjoyed the blog! I love you all! And I would absolutely love to grab coffee and swap stories with anyone interested upon my soon return :).
Monday, April 12, 2010
Israel/Palestine

I’m not sure how to even begin this entry, but I’ll tell you upfront that it will only touch the surface of what I’ve experienced in the last few weeks. We arrived in Jerusalem March 31st and stayed the first five nights at Jerusalem University College. It was BEAUTIFUL ! There were other American students that we could talk to, gardens to read in, and even a piano that I was able to play. We all loved staying there, but we moved to the Austrian Hospice after Easter Sunday which is more inside the city and closer to everything. Here’s a list of some things I’ve done since being here:
*Heard from a variety of speakers covering different perspectives on the Arab-Israel conflict. Among them was Archbishop Elias Chacour-author of one of my favorite books Blood Brothers.
*Toured Jerusalem and saw many many sites including the Garden of Gethsemane, the Tear-Drop church, the Temple Mount/City of David, etc.
*Walked the Via Dolorosa on Good Friday. This was almost the death of me. It was literally the most dangerous thing I’ve done this semester.
*Went to the Sunrise Easter Service and the Garden Tomb. It was also the first English church service I’ve been to this semester.
*Walked through Hezekiah’s Tunnel!
*Visited Yad Vashem (Holocaust Museum)
*Shabbat Observance at the Western/Wailing Wall
*Saw the Golan Heights and spent the rest of the day in Galilee/Nazareth. This included seeing ruins of a synagogue Jesus taught in, the supposed house of Peter’s mother-in-law, the church of the Enunciation, the Mount of the Beatitudes, etc. We also took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee!
*Spent a day in Tel Aviv walking along the beach, playing on an amazing big-kid playground, and flying a kite!
*Spent a day in Bethlehem. It doesn't look like the Christmas Carol. For there in the little town of Bethlehem is a huge wall dividing the West Bank from Israel. The wall was covered in graffiti--phrases like “This is the wall at which you should weep” remaining in my mind. We also met/had lunch with students from Bethlehem University.
*Visited/had discussions with students from Hebrew University
Today we hiked up Masada! If you don't know the story behind it, you should look it up. I was excited because I can remember my dad enthusiastically telling me all about the fortress and the story behind it. And today I got to see it for real! It was quite the hike! In my opinion, it was harder than Mt. Sinai because it was so steep! Afterward we went to En Gedi-the place where David hid from Saul. It was BEAUTIFUL and we swam in some springs/waterfalls. What a day! We have our last speaker tonight and then we have a final free day in Jerusalem before we return "home" to Cairo.
It has been a great two weeks, but mentally challenging as I expected. We've all been overloaded with opinions and information and our final 2 weeks in Cairo will be spent trying to spill it all back out into FOUR different papers. We have a lot of processing to do. It's hard to believe that the semester is almost over!
Until Cairo!...
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
On the Road to Damascus/Jordan
Monday, March 22, 2010
Turkey Part 1
This has been a semester of many firsts for me. Several got added to the list this week, including a not so good one—lice. I believe I got infested from the orphanage I volunteered at, as I was constantly holding kids and kids were always playing with my hair. I discovered this the night before we flew to Turkey, which meant a long night/morning of getting my hair treated and combed out. The next night my friend Sarah chopped off my hair and treated it again…which meant another late night. BUT now I am clean and sporting a new hair style :). I was SO blessed bv the girls who helped me out! It’s true friendship when you’re willing to give up your sleep to comb eggs out someone’s hair.
On a brighter note—TURKEY!!! Wow. I don’t know where to start. I love Istanbul. The first day we got a boat tour and had a chance to get settled in our hotel and scope out our location. It’s incredibly “modern”, beautiful and filled with life. I forgot that I was in the Middle East until I heard a call to prayer. Thursday we went to Koch University and received a lecture on the history of politics in Turkey. The lecture was great, but I was enthralled by the University itself which was incredibly impressive and huge. We have sometimes two lectures a day from a variety of speakers with a variety of view points, and then we have an enormous amount of reading to do every night to prepare for the next day. I’m learning a lot about the politics of Turkey! It’s all really quite fascinating. I’m also getting to see some sites. Friday we went to the Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque. I remember making a short video about the Hagia Sophia in high school for Art History class, but I never imagined I would actually get to see it! Very cool. I’ve also just done a lot of exploring on the streets that are covered with shops. I walked into a Starbucks the other day; it was very strange. I even met two Americans inside (one from Tennessee!). Like I said before, I keep forgetting that I’m in the Middle East. On Saturday my friend Sharon and I took a ferry ride to ASIA which is right across the Bosphorus. We were pretty excited about it. We also went to a Turkish church service and sang some worship songs we recognized in Turkish. It was nice to be in church; I miss it. I just can’t wait to be in an English service that I can understand :)! Today we went to the US Consulate building and were able to listen to a panel with different expertise, and then we went back to Asia to explore more! We have one more speaker tonight and then we say goodbye to Istanbul tomorrow morning to head to Ankara for a few days. Part 1 of travel has definitely been a success!
Random Fact::
It is illegal in Turkey to criticize Ataturk (the founder of the country). This includes stepping on a coin with his face on it. And because youtube contained "illegal" critiques of him, youtube is banned :).
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Adventures in Alex
Something very strange occurred last weekend. We had it free! With nothing scheduled for us to do, a small group of us decided to take a train up to Alexandria. We spent most of the time in the ENORMOUS Alexandria library. It took us about an hour to get in the first time because we had to 1. Buy a ticket. 2. Turn in our bags. 3. Register our laptops. 4. Go through a metal detector and inspector. It was pretty intense, but once we were there I managed to finish my paper on the western influence in the history of the Middle East. We didn’t spend the whole time being studious though! We had some pretty great adventures. Here are just a few:
*Stayed overnight in a hostel that cost us each only $6 (with beds of boards and a fun elevator you could ride without shutting the door)
*Ate at some great restaurants and drank the world’s best fresh fruit juice
*Enjoyed some time at a Brazilian coffee shop and taught “rock, paper, scissors” to observing business men beside us
*Got swarmed by Egyptian men beside the Mediterranean that took some time to get rid of
*Ran into a mid-westerner who was backpacking to Morocco (!) and also met a really neat, older couple from New Zealand that we decided we want to be like when we got older
It was a great weekend! Sunday we went to Al Ahzar – a nearby school which is very much like the Johnson Bible College of the Arab World. We heard from the director (though nothing of substance was said) and then ate lunch with the students. It was interesting. It was especially interesting to compare that experience with the experience of meeting with students from the Dutch-Flemish Institute a few weeks back. Talk about different worldviews.
Well, now that we’ve all made a home in Cairo, it is almost time to leave it. This week we have two more papers due and two finals in Arabic and Islam. Then it’s time to pack our bags and head to Istanbul, Turkey where we’ll be for the first week!
Random Fact:
To me, the nicest thing about living here is that everything you could possibly need can be found right outside your door. If you’re hungry, you can walk down the street and buy from various produce sellers, or you can walk into the bakery or order from Mr. Koko who makes Chicken Schwerma, rice, French fries, etc. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, the sweet potato man will be coming down your street with his cart. Walking down the same street, you also pass pharmacies, a clothing store, a stationary store…anything you need!
Monday, March 1, 2010
Floods. Sunburn. Ice. One Weekend.
Now I'm back in Cairo, and it's back to classes and homework. We only have 2 1/2 weeks left here before our travel component begins! I have no idea how time flew so quickly. Two weeks from today I'll have completed the three papers I have due (Isha'Allah) and will be packing my bags for Turkey! I can't get too ahead of myself, as I could easily feel overwhelmed with how much there is to cram in these next few weeks. I'm still loving my time here and have to stop myself sometimes several times a day just to say, "This is my life!" :).
Random Facts:
The “Big Blue Hole” is really…a big blue hole.
I could see Saudi Arabia from Dahab!
When I go back to Johnson next semester, I plan on keeping my desk at its lowest level and sitting on a floor cushion. I like this.
It’s time for me to make another visit to the chocolate-covered-peanuts man…
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Siwa, Sahara, and Scary Amounts of Food
Sunday night we met our families that we stayed and experienced true Egyptian life with for the week. I was adopted by a mom and her 3 (of 7!) daughters who were close in age to me. The youngest one had just turned 17 and she was the English-speaker of the family. I was impressed with her. They lived in a neighborhood about 20 minutes by taxi from where I live in Agouza, so it was a fairly easy commute. Here are a few things I experienced:
FOOD: The first day of my homestay, I ate FOUR FULL meals with a snack and many tea breaks in-between. I quickly learned that if I came close to clearing my plate, it would promptly be refilled with just as much if not more than I started with. …I really have gained weight since I’ve been here.
Late nights: To my family, going to bed at 11 pm (which is what I normally do) is like going to bed at 7. 11:00 is about the time my dinner was served.
Awkward silences with my mom: …
An Engagement Party!: My sister Nevin took me with her to an engagement party which was just as big if not bigger than a wedding reception in the states. It was a lot of fun to watch.
Great TV: We watched television a LOT. I saw some pretty great dramatic soap operas and a lot of good music videos. I also watched Oprah.
Grass!: Yesterday my sister Isro’ took me with her friend to an International Park. We just walked around and hung out in the shade. I had a lot of fun and it felt good to be in some nature.
It was great, great week, but it feels good to be back “home” again and stay away from the kitchen. It was a humbling experience, as I truly felt like a child in every way. I was being taught words and practicing my alphabet with my family; everything was done for me, and my hand was always held while crossing the street. But humility brings you more knowledge. So I’m a fan.
A lot is planned for this week, and on Thursday we leave for Mt. Sinai/Dahab! After that, there are a lot of papers due that are creeping up on me. I better get started!!
Random Facts:
If you talk to me for 2 minutes or less, you might think I’m conversational in Arabic. After 3 minutes, however, I’ve exhausted all my vocabulary and you realize I know nothing.
Egypt has made a tea-drinker out of me. I'm especially a fan of shey w leban (Tea and Milk!)
Egypt loves drama. People will just start yelling and fighting like someone has committed murder...and then it's over. And everybody is friendly.
There's an update of my life :). Love you all!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
"Keep an open mind, but make sure it's not open on both ends."
It’s been another week already?! It was a good one, but a busy one for my brain. Besides my every-day Arabic class, I learned some about US foreign policy, Iran, Islamic Thought and Practice, Muslim-Christian relations, and Egyptian cooking (mmmm). Friday we drove down to Anafora, a monastery/retreat center in the desert, where we held “Coptic-American Day!” We were able to meet many Coptic Christians around our age and engage them in conversation about our faiths and where/why they differ. I also got to hear a devotional from the Bishop Thomas! It was a very beneficial day for me and I walked away with an overall greater respect for the Coptic Church. I would love to tell you more about it when I get home. While I love being here, I sometimes get excited at the thought of coming home and just sharing! This is a short blog, but that just means I’ll have more to tell you personally :). My next blog will probably be epic as I leave tomorrow for SIWA and then begin my homestay on Sunday. There’s so much ahead! Ilhumdulilah!
Random Facts:
Cairo is infested with cats…and not just normal cats. These are special cats that can make the weirdest meows/screeching noises I’ve ever heard. Maybe that’s what Arabic sounds like in cat language??
I think the most commonly used phrase I hear is, “Mish mush kala!” (No problem/worries!)
I've begun to sleep through the night without waking up to the early call to prayer!
For all my family members that love to play Boggle/Scrabble…invest in a game called Bananagrams.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
21 days in!
Thursday night we headed south to Luxor by train. After ten freezing hours of bumping and stopping throughout the night, we arrived and checked into our hotel where I relaxed by the pool on the roof in beautiful weather. I know everyone back at home in the snow is jealous :). If it’s any consolation, just remember that you are breathing much cleaner air. Don’t take it for granted! That afternoon we toured Karnak temple and Luxor temple-both impressive. Saturday we went the Valley of the Kings and I got to go inside three tombs (Ramses III being one of them). It was so cool! I was thinking of how I get excited in the Johnson archives over books 200 years old. …I’m not sure my brain knows how to process THOUSANDS of years. But there I was. We also got to see Hatshupsut’s temple from afar and checked out a papyrus store and an alabaster store. Other than all the touring, I was able to get some reading done and chill out. I found some Rook players which was very exciting and made me feel more at home. It struck me as funny that I was sitting in Luxor, Egypt playing all sorts of mid-west games. All in all it was a great weekend, but I was very glad to come back to Agouza (my neighborhood in Cairo). The market sellers in Luxor were much more aggressive and harassing, and I was glad to leave that part of it. I really wish Egyptian men would realize that I have no desire to be compared with Shakira.
Sunday we were welcomed back home with crazy parties on the streets due to Egypt winning the African Cup. It was all pretty exciting, but the security guards made us go home and stay away from the craziness. They’re very protective of foreigners.
It was hard to transition back into classes, but at least I always find them interesting. It feels good to learn, although I’ve been getting frustrated with my Arabic and feeling like I’m not picking it up as quickly as I want to. I’m just trying to remember that even if I am the worse student here, I’ll still go home speaking more Arabic then any of my friends in the States ;).
Last night we went to see a special showing of an interfaith film/movie called Hassan and Morqos starring Omar Sharif (who was there!!!). Here’s the basic plot: A Muslim Sheik and a Coptic Christian are both in danger due to to religious extremists on both sides. They are put into a protection program where the Muslim Sheik has to pretend to be a Copt and the Copt has to pretend to be a Sheik. They end up as neighbors and become very close friends both thinking that they really share the same religion…. It was epic.
Today, just like every Tuesday, I went to the Sisters of Charity Orphanage in Garbage City and hand-washed some laundry. Next time you use your washing machine you should think about how blessed you are to have one. Those things are great.
Just like every week, this one will be busy. We’ve got great speakers lined up and a lot of reading to do to prepare. Next Wednesday, insha’allah we leave for SIWA! Time is flying by, but it’s great.
Like always, here are some more random facts for you:
I can buy 4 pieces of pita for 25 piasters…I’m pretty sure this is less than 5 cents in America. A Kilo of delicious oranges will cost you 2 or 3 pounds (50 cents).
I’m not sure I’ve actually touched grass since I’ve been here.
“A decision made by a camel offends no one.”-The Message (It’s like the Jesus movie, but about Mohammed.)
Saturday, January 23, 2010
I'm not a tourist; I live here!
I now know I’m officially in Egypt. I visited the Pyramids/Sphinx! Once we were at the pyramids, our taxi driver pulled over to let us off, but as soon as we opened the door we were assaulted with a guy trying to sell us camel rides. Unable to get out of the taxi, we kept trying to tell him no, but he wouldn’t leave. My friend in the front seat tried to shut the door, but the guy just hoped in (basically on his lap), shut the door and told the taxi driver to drive somewhere. And then were dropped off in ghetto where we were again tried to be persuaded to take a camel ride. Sells people here a quite aggressive :). But we finally got away and had a blast exploring around the pyramids and taking pictures. I did end up taking a camel ride with my friend Sharon along with our guide Moses (haha).I also got called Shakira/Queen about 5 times (as well as the other girls in my group). Afterwards a group of us ate at a Pizza Hut where we could see the pyramids from the window. Who would’ve thought?
Later that afternoon a group of 4 of us explored Coptic Cairo a bit and went inside some old churches and one synagogue with relics and interesting stories. There is so much to explore here.
That evening we had three Egyptian girls over for women’s night. We were able to ask them questions and talk about what it was like to live in Egypt as a woman. It was great to talk to them and learn about their culture and convictions.
Random Facts:
I'm sitting in an internet cafe right now listening to "My Humps".
I love it when people who recognize you as an English-speaker spit out any and all the English words/phrases they can think of. An example would be, "Hello.How are you? Yankee Doodle Dandee!"
I've found the world's best chocolate covered peanuts. They're now a weekly necessity.
We leave Thursday after classes for Luxor Insha'allah !! Until then! :)
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
When Everyday is an Adventure
Salaam!
Today was my first day of class! The reading looks a little overwhelming, but I'm excited about the material and know I'll enjoy the work. Here's a brief summary of what I've been doing since my last post!
Monday we took a bus down to Garbage City-a place where many Coptic Christians live. Their income comes from recycling all the trash in Cairo and using it to make and sell amazing things. While there we were able to check out two amazing churches that they’ve carved into stone (check out some pictures on facebook!) and we visited the Sisters of Charity Orphanage that was started by Mother Theresa. This is actually the place where I’ll be doing my service every Tuesday. Yesterday while I was there I helped with the babies. They are understaffed and any extra pair of hands that can hold a crying baby is appreciated.
Yesterday I did some shopping. I felt ridiculous as all I could come up with in Arabic is "how much?" and "thank you." What a foreigner. Despite the frustration and slight embarrassment, I ended up with food! I tried to make macaroni for my flatmates, but the cheese was weird and they all quickly learned that I am not the cook in the bunch haha. BUT I am opting to take an Egyptian cooking class! Maybe that will help?
Last night a few of us decided to take a walk downtown along the Nile and ended up in a marriage celebration! The bride and groom and their family members were on the sidewalk where we were walking and they literally pulled us in to take pictures with them and dance. It was quite an experience, and we had a blast. You never know what will happen here in Egypt!
Random Facts:
1. As our interns like to tell us, we as girls have "undergone a change." We all get told everyday that we are beautiful. In fact, we are distracting enough that we have managed to stop traffic AND a football (soccer) game.
2.It rained in Egypt yesterday. There are a few puddles. Everyone thinks it's flooded and freezing.
Taking It In
Here are some random facts you may like to know:
Cairo is generally safe; Cairo traffic is NOT…
Sexual harassment is a serious issue in Cairo. I as woman must avert my eyes on the street and not make eye contact or conversation with males that I pass.
Cairo has the world’s worse air pollution-even worse than Beijing! We blow black out of our noses…
Even people without any knowledge of English can communicate one word to us- OBAMA! They like him very much.
We start service projects on Tuesday and our classes begin on Wednesday. I’m excited to be here! Thank you to all of you are praying for me. I appreciate you very much! I will try to update once a week, but no promises!
Love,
Danielle
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
7 Days and Counting
Danielle Wingfield
c/o Middle East Studies Program
P.O. Box 213
Zamalek
Cairo, EGYPT